Posts tagged Bars

The majority of people have a fairly simple relationship with beer. If you’re a girl it’s probably a beverage you usually associate with hot days or being at the beach; if you’re a guy you probably associate beer mainly with sports or just getting rat-arsed with your buddies.

But if that’s not too far from how you feel about beer - it’s time you reconsidered your associations. Beer, and in particular American beer, has undergone a stunning renaissance over the last 25 years, and is right now enjoying a moment of creativity and quality that’s unrivaled in human history. Beer - surprisingly enough - has become sophisticated.

(Certain you can’t be convinced to try new beer? Well stop reading, slap yourself for your close-mindedness, and check out today’s exciting renaissance in cocktail culture).

Let’s wind the clock back a little to see just how we got to this frankly, glorious moment in time. It all starts way back in 1920 with the nakbar, or catastrophe that was Prohibition, (on which subject there’s an excellent Ken Burns Doco now screening on PBS - 1st episode: A Nation Of Drunkards below).

(See more Ken Burns here.)

The temperance movement had already succeeded in shutting down many breweries, and when the Constitution’s 18th amendment banned the production, sale & consumption of liquor, the last 1500 or so breweries closed their doors.

Nearly a decade and a half later America’s taps finally started pouring again, albeit slowly due to the still-strong temperance movement. But before the American beer industry could re-establish itself, WWII began, forcing grain rationing, which meant smaller brewers had to insert corn and rice as substitutes, inhibiting their growth. From 1941 til 1945 beer production exploded by 40%, but it was from an ever decreasing group of mega breweries like Anheuser-Busch (Budweiser) and Coors that came to dominate the market for the next 50 years with their light, flavorless lagers and pilsners.

American beer became a joke around the world, nicely encapsulated by this riddle:

Q: What do American beer and sex in a canoe have in common?

A: They’re both fucking close to water.

If it wasn’t for Jimmy Carter, this sad and tragic state of affairs might still be the case today; but in 1978 Carter legalized home brewing. This sparked a resurgence of interest in beer from passionate people who began to create beers with flavor. At the time, many people who tried ‘craft’ beers shrugged them off as “too strong”. But after a while people’s palates began to adjust to beers with flavor, body and aroma, in contrast to the bland swill they’d historically been served.

Home brewers got good enough at what they did, that they started their own micro-breweries. This really was an unusual case of creating demand for something people didn’t know they wanted (because like an iPhone, it didn’t exist before), rather than the usual focus-group-tested and market-researched approach to product launches in the modern business world.

Today, while the overall beer market in America - and in most industrialized countries - is stagnant or declining, the pricier craft beer segment continues to grow anywhere between 5% and 10% annually. This is in the face of a worldwide economic collapse.

Why the surging popularity? It’s largely due to the consistently increasing quality and range of styles on offer. American brewers are now regarded as leading the world because of their innovative, take-no-prisoners approach to brewing. Even prestigious German and Belgian brewers, who arguably have made the best beer in the world for the longest, are today influenced by American brewers. And English consumers crave American brews (even if some of their journalists are a little fuzzy on the difference between a lager and an ale).

It’s also no doubt in part because people are increasingly realizing the range of beers on offer in most convenience stores in the US offers more and better options for matching with food than your local wine store ever can.

Yeah I said it - beer is better for matching with food than wine. (Cheese in particular). “Sacre bleu!” and “Bullshit!” I hear you cry. How can this be? It’s simple.  While wine is made with one ingredient - grapes - beer is made with four ingredients: water, barley, yeast and hops; all of which reflect the terroir they come from. And it can be made with many more ingredients. Because of this, beer simply has a much wider variety of flavors and textures than wine, that can both complement and contrast with food.

Here’s a very useful chart for matching beer with food. Download it and go explore!

There are nearly 100 or so different styles of beer available and growing. Arguably the most famous new style is Cascadian Dark Ale, also known as a black IPA, and the innovation in the industry, notorious for beer names, beer blurbs, and increasingly insane quantities of alcohol - even extends to the packaging.

How’s that? Cans are becoming in vogue over bottles, much as screw-caps are displacing corks in wine bottles. Wait a minute. Wasn’t it the mass produced shitty beer that was in cans and the good stuff in bottles? Not any more. Light is the enemy of beer because it oxidizes it, making it stale (which is why beer isn’t produced in clear bottles). Cans also weigh less, don’t shatter into foot eating shards, and are much more convenient outdoors, or in cities that forbid bottles in public places like parks and beaches.

Anyway, before I get carried away talking about how the main difference in flavor between Belgian beers and American beers is that the Belgians focus more on the yeast, while the Americans focus more on the hops, I think I should just leave it here for now. Below is my gift to you, a map I constructed of the best places for craft beer in New York. It’s by no means complete - works in progress are like that - but it should come in handy for anyone looking for a good brew in New York.

(View New York’s Greatest Craft Beer Joints in a larger map)

If New York’s a bit far away from you, I recommend perusing the Beer Mapping Project for a comprehensive list of US cities, as well as 12 other countries around the world. 

Cheers!

Call me strange, but I love critics.

I can feel you rolling your eyes from here, but hear me out. I rely on them all the time to help me decide on whether I want to further investigate music, movies, food, drink, art, restaurants, bars. All sorts. And good critics do that: give you enough information to help you make a good choice.

Bad critics, both professional and amateur, do something else. Bad critics have one thing in common (apart from being unfunny and overly narcissistic) - they always overreach themselves as arbiters of taste.

Let me give an example of which I’m overly familiar, having spent a good decade reviewing music albums and EPs. It goes a little something like this: ‘I don’t understand this music and it leaves me cold, but I’m sure it’s great if you’re into that sort of thing…’.

The whole entire point of criticism is that it needs to be written from the point of view of a fan. Why? Well who do you think is reading that review? It’s people who are really into whatever genre or specific artist it is that you’re reviewing. (This holds true for movies, food, and the other aforementioned fields too). People who don’t have a strong affiliation either way are not the target audience of your review.

So a good critic doesn’t compare a B-movie action thriller to The Remains Of The Day. Fast Five is not literature, and it’s not trying to be. It’s a completely preposterous and absurd movie with some hot chicks, great action sequences, and very high production values that’s aimed at teenage boys, and the teenage boy in all of us. Or at least half of us.

It’s not a good movie - but it’s a really good bad movie.

A good critic will come at their review from the viewpoint of someone who’s really into say, country music, or post-modern literature, or Woody Allen, and take pains to describe their album (or movie or whatever) in the sort of terms and style, and with enough reference points to other comparable artists, that it gives you enough information to decide for yourself if you want to go out and investigate further and/or purchase said product. A good critic shouldn’t even really need to say if something is good or not; just explain if they liked it or not, and why.

Oh, and ideally, do this in a funny and engaging way that exhibits a certain playfulness with language.

If you think I’m wrong, well… everyone’s a critic.